Day 1-2: Siracusa

Everyone should be ready to ride as we get fitted for our bikes and do an easy flat ride along the coast into Siracusa and end with a boat ride along the canals and into the papyrus groves that supplied the once-lucrative paper industry.

According to legend, Greek settlers from Corinth founded Siracusa in 734 BC. It was here where the legendary genius Archimedes used an array of mirrors to set a Roman fleet on fire.

Today Siracusa is a pleasant mix of late-Baroque and ancient classical architecture where colorful fishing boats lie in a little harbor as they have for thousands of years. The charm is endless; we enjoy the lively cafés within the ancient cobblestone piazzas and engage the exceptionally nice people for a stay to be remembered.

After settling in at our charming hotel, we gather for a private walking tour of the city through the pleasant labyrinth of alleyways past treasures from BC to the 18th century. We follow-up our walking tour, if time allows, with a visit of the archeological park featuring a Roman sacrificial altar and a fantastic Greek Theater and Amphitheater carved from the bedrock.

Lodgings: 2 nights in a small and cozy 3-star inn situated in the ancient part of Siracusa along the Ionian Sea and what was once the “Mastrarua”, the main street of the Middle Ages Spanish Siracusa.

Dinner: at a trattoria serving specialties from Siracusa, such as pasta with winter melon, a dish that the poor peasants would eat, or cannelloni stuffed with whey cheese, a favorite of the cultivated aristocracy.

Day 2: Baroque Haven & the Art of Making Gelato

We ride within the hills above Siracusa and along spectacular quiet roads that leads one to wonder if there are any cars in Sicily. This peaceful route through the rural countryside offers a continual view as we pedal to Antica Noto, a forgotten ruinous city that has recently been given protection status by UNESCO. The journey ends with a 12-mile downhill ridge ride that leads into the stunning medieval baroque jewel of Noto. Here the tradition of granita and gelato has been one of the town’s well-known specialties for centuries and we are therefore obliged to try the gelato that is said to make grown men cry.

Seated on the balcony above the Pasticceria Costanzo is a bearded angels who keeps the secrets of such treasures as jasmine blossom gelato, an ancient, Arabic specialty. Neighboring Café Sicilia’s owner Corrado Assenza gave up a university teaching career in order to carry on the tradition of the Café. Just like Senore Costanzo, he too is internationally renowned as a gelato artist; honor his creamy creation which combines lemon and cinnamon. Or close your eyes for a moment over a fig granita.

Lodgings: Same as previous night.

Dinner: At our friend Cinzia’s favorite local trattoria, we sample fresh antipasti and then try the catch of the day.

Day 3: Caltigirone “Queen of the Mountians”

Enjoy the juiciest, sweetest blood oranges in the world with freshly baked bread and local cheeses during our picnic lunch that awaits us. We continue our ride into a perfectly hexagon square of a 17th century town, then follow country roads that wind their way up to Caltagirone, one of Italy’s most important ceramic center.

As we approach this ornate town where some of the earliest ceramic works were produced 4,000 years ago, it starts to make sense why it was so described the “Queen of the Mountains”. The facades of palaces and churches are tastefully decorated with colorful tiles and the splendor of the many Villas, palaces and churches that line the streets of this Arab, Muslim and Norman influenced town never ceases to be impressive.

We walk up the 140 steps of Santa Maria del Monte, to a street and a flight of steps richly decorated with hand-painted ceramic tiles. Then there’s enough time to look at some of the town’s artisan stores before we enjoy the serene atmosphere around sunset from the cathedral.

Thanks to Arab influences, Caltagirone features some of the tastiest pastries ever made. How about nougat of chickpea seeds, candied oranges and honey called cubbaita for desert?

Lodgings: A simple B&B in old town center.

Dinner: A family run ristorante in the heart of the old medieval center of town, a local favorite.

Day 4: Ceramics & Roman Villa

A free morning in Caltigirone is a popular option. Tour the ceramics museum, which displays ceramic work from 2,000 B.C. to present, and then walk up the 140 richly decorated hand-painted ceramic tile steps of Santa Maria del Monte before exploring the many artisan shops and hidden treasures of Caltagirone.

For those that wish to make it a full day of cycling, we glide down from the hilltop town into a wild, rural countryside of abundant wild flowers and herds of sheep sure to block our way. This open, stunning landscape gives us our first distant glimpse of the dominant Mt Etna, “the column which supports the sky”—Pindar, before meeting the non-riders who’ve transferred to Piazza Armerina, the heart of Sicily.

This picturesque town seems to fall from the hillside and leads us to the extraordinary remains of Villa Casale. This country estate of Roman Emperors was used from as early as 286 AD until a 12th century mudslide covered it until a 19th century archeologist rediscovered it. The main feature of this 50 room estate is the superbly preserved quality mosaic floors. You will be amazed by the beauty and perfection of these famous works, such as the hunting scene or the women athletes in bikinis, two well-documented favorites.

Back on the bikes we ride along a ridge that rolls down through several tiny hamlets forever in the shadows of mighty Mt. Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. Locally, referred to as “the Eye of the Cyclopes”, the continual gift of Etna is revealed along our route and around every bend of amazing vistas and landscapes. A short transfer brings us to Nicolosi.

Lodgings: A nice 3-star hotel in Nicolosi located close to the base of Mt. Etna.

Dinner: Fantastic homemade fare like caponata, a sweet & sour specialty made of eggplant.

Day 5: Mt. Etna & Sicilian Wines

We rise fairly early to climb to the top of Europe’s largest volcano, Mt. Etna. Some called it “the column which supports the sky” while others thought of it as “the Eye of the Cyclopes.”  A four-wheel drive & cable tram take us through a moon-like landscape up to 9,388’. The enthusiast can walk up to this point, but the day is less tiring by driving it. The views are something else from up here.

Depending on the conditions we may be able to walk up to 10,965’ and the spectacular view point of the gentle hills of Sicily’s interior, the deep blue Ionic coast, the Aeolian islands with Stromboli Volcano fuming in the sea with the shores of mainland Calabria & Campania in the background. On an extremely clear day, one can even catch a glimpse of Africa. Our guide, Antonio, has spent the last thirty years traveling the world to study volcanoes; needless to say he and his team offer the best guides for this hike and are able to answer any question regarding Etna.  We leave Antonio and head down a panoramic trail through a surrealistic landscape that takes us along the eastern face of Etna and back into the lush vegetation of a botanical garden.

Lunch is atop Etna, then we either transfer or bike down along the base of Etna through the terraced hills of lemon groves. Here is an opportunity to stop at one of Sicily’s fine wine producers for a tour and tasting. Then onward to Taormina.

Lodgings: 17th century palace (Moorish style) in the historic center of town; overlooking the semitropical hills and the turquoise waters. There is a beautiful private garden full of lemon trees, palms and bougainvillea. The antique-furnished living room is the spot to relax. All rooms are large, simple and charming. Each has either a wrought iron balcony or a private little patio. The owner and his family give this inn a very warm, family atmosphere.

Dinner: Free night out.

Day 6-7: Taormina & Messina

Taormina is said to be the most beautiful city of Sicily where legend tells of how Neptune sunk a ship of Greek sailors. Only one man survived and because he could not believe how beautiful it is here, he decided to stay and founded the town of Taormina.

Either before or after our optional ride we tour the impressive archeological site where the Greek Theater, set on the edge of town above the Sea and with Etna as a backdrop, was almost completely remodeled by the Romans.

For those that choose to explore more of Taormina the rest of the afternoon is very flexible from a day on the beach or in the gardens, to shop or to take a walk with us through groves of lemon and orange trees past the many mansions and castles. A great hike wanders through the small streets and stairways past houses boasting flower-filled balconies (there is a contest each year on who best decorates the façade with flowers), exploring the many Romanesque and Gothic treasures, then up to the castle for a magnificent view of the acropolis.

For those who wish to ride, we start with a warm up stretch before a mountain stage up to 3300 feet or shuttle up in the van. High above Messina along a quiet lush path, splendid views open up to Messina, the port, Capo Peloro and mainland Calabria. We descend to the coastal town Sparta and on to the famous border between the Tyrrhenian and the Ionian Sea, the Straight of Messina. Here we visit the lighthouse Torre Faro where a study center has opened.

You are treated to a guided tour where we learn about the history, geology, fauna, flora and legends that surround the small gap of powerful water between Sicily and the mainland. Contemporary artists exhibit their work in the lighthouse where a multimedia show informs us on the tradition of swordfish hunting and how the WWF is taking care of ill and wounded sea turtles. We shuttle back to Taormina by van and before sunset we gather on the panoramic terrace high above the sea for a five-star view and a toast to the great week we’ve enjoyed on this splendid island.

Lodgings: Same as previous night.

Dinner: Watch the sunset and look forward to our farewell dinner. This is the time to try the fantastic seafood or try the pasta con le sarde (sardines) or another of the surprising specialties from Sicily’s most beautiful town.

*Meeting your tour:

Ideally you would fly into Catania and we would be there to meet you at airport. (We can suggest many options low cost airlines that fly into Catania from various cities in Europe.)

Overnight train to Catania (tour start) from Rome: ~11 hours
(you would need to order a sleeper car no later than one day in advance)

Trains from Rome (Roma) Catania (tour start): ~11 hours
#793-Conca d’Oro-- Roma Termini -23:00--à arrival Catania Centrale ---09:07

* Departure times and track are known to change on a moments notice, thus verify before boarding